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Corona Update Nepal

Peak Climbing in Kanchenjunga Region

Abhishek Subedi August 9, 2020

Peak climbing is quite an exciting activity when you think about it. It takes adventure in the wilderness to a whole new level. If you’re tired of trekking in the wild, and if you’re willing to take your trekking trip to a whole new level, go on and include a peak climbing segment to it. You will absolutely love the adventure.

Now, there is a difference between peak climbing and expedition. This is something that a lot of people don’t really understand. Expedition is an extreme and more difficult version of peak climbing. So, while peak climbing is completed within a day or two at max, it might take weeks and even months to finish an expedition. You don’t really need to have professional climbing skills and experience to go on peak climbing, however, you do need it during an expedition. Peak climbing can be performed by anyone who knows basic level climbing, and is physically fit.

Peak Climbing in Kanchenjunga Region

You don’t even need as much equipment during peak climbing as you do during an expedition. In short, peak climbing can be considered as an extended form of trekking. Finally, peak climbing is performed on shorter peaks, and expeditions on huge ones.

1. Kanchenjunga Expedition

The Kanchenjunga Expedition is one of the most difficult expeditions in the world. It has had a death rate of around 20% since the year 1990. There are two base camps in Nepal from where you can begin your Kanchenjunga Expedition. The first one is Kanchenjunga North Base Camp, and the second one is Kanchenjunga South Base Camp. During the expedition, the climbers seek to reach the top of Kanchenjunga Main, which has a height of 8486 m. Kanchenjunga Expedition is a 65 days long journey, and during this time, the mountaineers climb for a duration of around 40 days. This is how much time it takes to reach the top of the peak from the base camp and back.

The rest of the time is spent either travelling from one place to another on vehicles, or acclimatizing on the route. The climbers spend around 12 days trekking on the route. Trekking is crucial as it helps the climbers’ bodies adjust to the high altitude environment. The number of trekking days also depends on which base camp the climber prefers for climbing. If you’re a climbing enthusiast, you should definitely try out this climbing trip.

2. Lumba Sumba Peak Climbing

Lumba Sumba Peak is one of the prominent peaks in the eastern part of Nepal. Though not exactly in the Kanchenjunga region, it is actually situated on the borderline between Makalu and Kanchenjunga region. Lumba Sumba Peak has a height of 5672 m, and it is believed that reaching the top would award you with the most spectacular views of mountains in the eartern part of Nepal, from Makalu and Barun to Everest and even Kanchenjunga. Lumba Sumba peak climbing is a 25 days long journey. The climbers follow the same route that they do on the Lumba Sumba Pass trek.

 Lumba Sumba Peak Climbing

Despite the length of the journey, only 3 days are spent climbing to the top of the peak and back. The rest of the time is spent either trekking or acclimatizing on the route. During the journey, you get to experience all the attractions of the Lumba Sumba pass trek, since Lumba Sumba Peak climbing is only an extended version of the trek. You get to enjoy the best of Makalu Barun National Park and Kanchenjunga Conservation Area as well. Lumba Sumba peak climbing should be definitely tried by individuals who love peak climbing.

3. Dormo Peak Climbing

Dormo peak is the tallest peak featured on this list and probably one of the most difficult ones to climb. The peak is situated in the Kanchenjunga region, and its height is 6855 m. Quite like other peaks in the list, this one also offers outstanding views of the mountains in the Kanchenjunga region and beyond. Altogether, it’s a 33 days long journey, however, the climbing spans only for a duration of one day. The climbing starts from Lhonak, and within a single day, the climbers are able to reach the top of the peak and back. This journey is an extension of Kanchenjunga trek. Kanchenjunga trek is a journey that is challenging already.

If you’re quite into exploring the region, and are looking to take Kanchenjunga trek to a new level, you should definitely try Dormo Peak climbing. It goes without saying that during the overall journey, you get to explore the attractions, natural, religious and historical, that you do during Kanchenjunga trek. This includes both the Kanchenjunga North Base Camp and Kanchenjunga South Base Camp. This is one of the best things about this journey. This is certainly a journey that’s worth a try. 

4. Bokta Peak Climbing

Bokta Peak is a mini mountain that is situated in the Kanchenjunga region. It has a height of 6143 m, and it is said to offer the most amazing views of the region, including that of peaks like Kanchenjunga, Mera, Jannu, and so on. Bokta Peak Climbing is an extended version of the Kanchenjunga Trek journey. You start your journey from Suketar quite like any other trek in the Kanchenjunga region. Moreover, you make your way through the Kanchenjunga Trek route, and walk all the way up to high camp above Ramche. You begin your climbing from the high camp itself. This is a fairly technical peak climbing activity, and so, you need decent climbing skills to reach the top of it. Though the entire journey spans for a duration of 26 days, the core peak climbing takes only 3-4 days long.

Bokta Peak Climbing

The rest of the time is spent acclimatizing on the route, and trekking. Kanchenjunga trek is a major part of this journey, and so, you get to explore all the attractions of the trekking journey. If you’re looking to take your Kanchenjunga trek to a whole new level, with added attractions and challenges, you should definitely try climbing on the Bokta Peak.

5. Kangbachen Peak Climbing

Kangbachen is the shortest peak on the Kanchenjunga massif. It has a height of 7903 m. Kangbachen is situated in the Nepalese state of Taplejung. There is no official record about any ascent made on this peak. It is simply a huge structure that adds to the beauty of the massif. 

6. Kanchenjunga South

The next peak on the Kanchenjunga massif is Kanchenjunga South. With a height of 8492 m, it is the third highest peak on the massif. When it comes to location, it lies on the border of Nepalese district of Taplejung and Indian state of Sikkim. It was first climbed by Wojciech Wróż and Eugeniusz Chrobak of the Polish Expedition team in 1978.


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