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Chamlang Expedition

Abhishek Subedi July 12, 2020

Chamlang Expedition is a beautiful mountain lying in the Makalu region (Hongu valley, southwest of Makalu). A Japanese expedition team member  So Anma and a Nepali Sherpa Pasang Phutar Sherpa were the first to climb this mountain on the 31st May 1962 led by Takeo Okamoto. It is a steep forward mountain that demands good physical fitness and technical climbing. This peak boasts an absolutely stunning summit panorama that includes 5 of the world’s 8,000m peaks and other smaller peaks: Everest, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Lhotse, and many other 7,000m peaks including Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Pumori, Kangtega, Nuptse and other marvelous view around. Base Camp is situated at an altitude of 4200m. From where we set up 3 camps before attempting the summit (Camp I -5,200m), Camp II-5,700m, Camp III-6,300m). 

Chamlang Expedition

About the Chamlang Expedition

Apart from the difficult and challenging expedition, the trek leading towards the base camp requires the crossing of two popular high passes. They are Zatrawala Pass at 4600 meters and Mera La Pass at 5400 meters. Hence, a high level of physical fitness and previous experience of technical climbing is highly recommended for the summit climb of Mt Chamlang. The Chamlang Expedition is an excellent option for adventure-seeking climbers to gain a thrill and excitement filled adventure climbing with rewards of stunning views of the world’s towering mountains. 

Chamlang Expedition starts from the beautiful flight towards the Lukla airport with the majestic views of the hills and snow capped mountains. It is a beautiful and thrilling experience of conquering the summit of Mount Chamlang. Chamlang Expedition can be challenging as well as thrilling so the climbers should be in their best mental and physical state.

Day 1 Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla

Today, you will take an early morning scenic flight from Kathmandu to the airstrip of Lukla. Lukla is the gateway to Khumbu and the entire Everest region. From Lukla, you will start your trek heading east into the thick forest on the hillside below the Kalo Himal Ridge. There are several trails that head away from the main trail on this section. So, sticking to the group is the best option before arriving at Chhutang.

Chamlang Expedition

Day 2 Chhutang to Thuli Kharka

Leaving Chhutang you will follow the trail that is a gradual ascent which steepens as we head towards the crossing of Zatrawala Pass at 4600 meters. The tiring climb to the top of the pass is rewarded with magnificent views of Numbur Himal, Kongdi Ri, Karyolang Peak and other surrounding peaks. Your trek goes along a levelled path for almost two hours before descending all the way to Tuli Kharka.

Day 3 Tuli Kharka to Kothe

From Tuli Kharka, trail is a mixture of both uphill and downhill trekking through dense forest filled with rhododendron, oak, pine and juniper trees. During your trek today you will have magnificent views of Mera Peak and surrounding snow-capped peaks. A steep descent to the Hinku River and a final uphill climb will lead us to Kothe. Kothe lies to the west side of the Hinku valley and offers serene wilderness with lush vegetation to trekkers.

Day 4 Kothe to Thangnak

The trail from Kothe goes along the ridge of Hinku river towards Gondishung. Further trekking you will pass through Lungsumgba Gompa which was built approximately 200 years ago. Here you can find Mera Peak along with its route scripted in a rock which is a fantastic piece of rock carving architecture. The trek continues with a rather easy walking trail that leads to the summer grazing area of Thangnak where there are shops and a number of good tea houses.

Day 5 Thangnak to Khare

The trail from Thangnak goes over the lateral moraine towards hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers. From there, your further trekking is a steep climb all the way to Khare. You will have a magnificent view of the Northern Face of Mera Peak from Khare. Besides, Khare offers a number of good hikes for exploration and acclimatization.

Day 6 Rest at Khare

Acclimatization is essential at higher altitudes to avoid mental and physical sickness. As you are above 5000 meters altitude, you will spend a rest day at Khare for acclimatization and exploration.

Chamlang Expedition

Day 7 Khare to Chamlang Low Base Camp

Today, you will move up towards Chamlang Lower Base Camp. You will head following the impressive mountain vistas in the Hinku basin that take you to reach the adventurous Mera La Pass at 5400 meters. You will follow the rock platform above the western ridge of Mera Glacier. Mera La Pass offers a stunning view of mountains including the close-up view of Mt. Chamlang. After Mera La, you will start a gentle descent towards your campsite at Chamlang Low Base Camp.

Day 8 Low Base Camp to Chamlang Base Camp

Today you will further make an ascend towards Chamlang Base Camp, following a gradual ascent of a rocky ridge filled with snow and ice. The Sherpa Crew will establish a safe campsite over there. Since you need to cross numerous snowfalls and ice paved trails, usages of crampons and ice axes need to be used.

Day 9 – 25 Climbing Period of Mount Chamlang

You will spend several days doing climbing training practices with adequate days for proper acclimatization. The Sherpa crew will do all the hard work of setting up additional camps at higher altitudes. Fully equipped with all the climbing equipment and with proper acclimatization. You will follow the guidance and instructions of experienced climbing experts. You will tackle several technical climbing sections and taking weather conditions into consideration you head towards the summit of Mount Chamlang. Once at the summit, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the world’s towering mountains including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Baruntse, Makalu and several other high peaks in the Everest Region. After spending quality time at the summit, you will safely descend following the same route back to Base Camp.

Day 26 Chamlang Base Camp to Mera La

After accomplish, successful summit climb of Mt. Chamlang Expedition, you will retrace your steps from Chamlang Base Camp to Mera La Pass. You walk through snow and ice ridges with a gradual descent. The descent is immediately steep, plunging down with crossing of snowfalls and often windy places. You will have to make a safe campsite with splendid surrounding views at Mera La Pass.

Day 27 Mera La to Khare

You are about to complete all difficult and challenging snow ridges, you will take a further descent towards Khare. With impressive views of mountains, you will start to decline through steel screws, crossing boulder fields through the ridge of stunning Mera glacier.  Finally reach Khare, where you will get nice tea houses for your accommodation.

Day 28 Khare to Kothe

You will retrace your steps from Khare and pass through Thangnak before heading further towards Kothe. With mostly downhill trekking, you will leave the high altitudes and enter into the dense sub-tropical forest filled with rhododendron, oak, pine and birch trees. You will trek until you arrive at Kothe.

Day 29 Kothe to Tuli Kharka

Leaving Kothe, the trail is uphill trekking through dense rhododendron forest that goes over the western section of Hinku valley towards Tuli Kharka. From Tuli Kharka you can enjoy the magnificent views of Mera North, Mera Central and south face of Mera Peak.

Chamlang Expedition

Day 30 Tuli Kharka to Lukla vis Zatrawala Pass

Today is the last day of your trekking. From Tuli Kharka you will ascend for the crossing of Zatrawala Pass and from the top of the pass. You will have to descend to finally arrive back to Lukla. 

Day 31 Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu Valley

Fly from Lukla Airport to Kathmandu Airport. You can enjoy the panoramic views of snowy mountains from the window of the plane.

Chamlang Expedition is one of the adventurous trips in Nepal where you can enjoy the beautiful and ancient culture. The Sherpa people with the thrilling experience of climbing the summit of the Chamlang.

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